A Black Food Archive:
CITYLAB Portfolio
Community Profile: The Black Butterfly
Source: https://www.gensler.com/gri/aligning-practice-with-climate-justice
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Baltimore is a city with a deep reverence for the past as well as a place that is continuously evolving. It sits at the intersection of tradition and innovation, with a true spirit of resilience. Lawrence T. Brown’s Black Butterfly gives us the language and the lens in which we can use to critically look at the historical trauma embedded into the spatial fabric of the neighbourhoods in Baltimore. One of the first cities to be redlined, Baltimore was the ground zero blueprint used to manufacture inequities that we can still see in other major cities in America.There is a direct parallel between Baltimore and Miami, which is where I grew up in my formative years. I see a place built around water, the seafood, and culturally diverse markets. Baltimore is a city that is very much alive, and building community spaces and alternative food networks that are restructuring these old redlines and the resources that were available in them.The very nature of a butterfly is to change, and Baltimore is a city grounded in traditions but has empowered citizens that are reimagining Baltimore neighborhoods as spaces to community prosperity.
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Markets
Markets
Markets act as a gathering space for the community in Baltimore. The market is where people go to get access to foods that might not be readily present in their communities. It is a nexus for social connection where people are meeting their neighbors, and exchanging ideas, stories and recipes.
In Baltimore, these spaces serve to bring together diverse groups of people that would not normally interact because of the hypersegregation that has been interwoven into the spatial experience. These markets are also spaces where Black people are reclaiming cultural heritage and connection to the food system and the land. It is a space where the local urban farmers can grow, harvest and provide culturally relevant foods that bridges the community gardens with the community members.
During September’s Bromo Art Walk experience I had the opportunity to dine with members of the local community in an experience called eating with strangers, where the history and impact of the market was detailed. Stories got shared of some of the old vendors that once worked in the different stalls. This experience allowed me to see the deep reverence Baltimoreans have for their markets and how these spaces thrive when food is used as a way to bridge people with collective memory and allow people to share authentically.
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Arabbers
Arabbers
During my journey of exploring Baltimore’s food space, driving in the car in West Baltimore I stumbled upon one of its unique characteristics, “Arabbers”.
An Arabber is a street vendor that is characteristically known for selling fruits and vegetables in a horse drawn cart. These vendors serve as mobile markets for the communities in which they service. Arabber’s in the Black Butterfly are a part of the legacy and tradition of providing foods to communities left out of reach by the local supermarkets. Arabber stands in the gap of these food insecure areas, that may only have a gas station or corner store. They serve as a representation of the innovative resiliency that is on display throughout the city if we slow down to listen. I listened and I heard bells jingling down the road.
I had the opportunity to meet Tony, as he serves the community that I am situated in West Baltimore called Coppin Heights. Tony has been Arabbing for decades. I had the chance to buy some fresh fruits that I have not had since I moved away from Miami. The horse's name is Michelle and she is a beautiful black stallion that you can see marching up and down the roads during the week.
Each Arabber has a unique call when they are marching through the streets that helps people to readily identify them, this is reminiscent of the call and response in Black churches and in west african traditional story telling. This is the one of the throughlines that connects people living in Black Butterfly back to their ancestral roots in subtle ways that are embedded in cultural memory.
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The Water
The Water
The water is the lifeblood of the city. It is a sacred space that holds the memory of culture, community, and commerce—past and present. In Baltimore, I observed that the water is a place to commune, to gather, and to feed ourselves. For many along the harbor, it is more than just a backdrop; it is a living reminder of freedom.
The water is not merely scenery; it is a space where food resiliency and community take root. It teaches us that everything is connected. To create a truly livable city, we must honor and protect the water as a sacred space. In doing so, we protect the health of all who depend on it.
An observation I made as I sat at the harbor across from Captain James restaurant one night was a family of 5 with small fish nets. I realized that they were ‘crabbing’ for blue crabs which are a delicacy as well as a staple here in Baltimore. While people went on their nighttime runs and bike rides, this family was catching their dinner. I watched as the youngest of the bunch caught their first crab of the night and cheerfully ran up and down the boardwalk.
This seemingly simple scene reminded me that water is a portal to our shared prosperity in a city like Baltimore. How we choose to build relationships with it, and with the environment around it—will determine the futures we inherit. I think about runoff into Baltimore’s watershed, trash dumping, and pollutants like lead that find their way into what we drink and eat.
As we labor together to co-create livable cities, we must collectively focus on water and the vital role it plays in building healthy, thriving communities. Many families rely on this water to cook, clean, and nourish themselves. When we protect it, we protect not only our environment but our collective right to well-being and dignity.
